Sunday, 2 August 2015

Teak Rubbing Strake Renovation

Another pause between posts but the latest job has taken a couple of weekends to complete and I thought it would be be better to just wait until its finished then post the whole job so to speak.
So as progress moves upwards the next step would be to paint the topsides (part of the hull between the waterline and deck joint), however before I could do that I needed to decided what I would do with the Teak Rubbing Strake (strip of wood that runs around the top of the hull). It was in quite bad condition with damage in places so I was considering replacing it with a new one, that was of course until I got an estimate from a timber yard! 
Due to the high cost of teak they recommended getting a quote for Iroko which is commonly used as a Teak replacement but not quite as expensive, this came out at a whopping £400, in addition I probably would have had to steam it or some other lengthy process in order to get the correct shape for the hull.
I felt that the cost and time needed to replace it would not be worth the benefit, so decided to go for a renovation instead.

First job was to remove the stainless steel strip which is held in place by 120 screws, this revealed some damage which would need attention.

This section had obviously suffered a good 'clump' at some time which resulted in the crack that you can see.

Another clump had also caused the stainless trim which covers the transom to come out of place.
Luckily these were not fatal and could be rectified with some more clumping, screwing and filling.

The main job was to sand the whole thing back to a nice fresh surface and then decided on how it would be treated.
I decided to invest £25 in a mini air sander which would run off the compressor that I have being using and had a small 50mm diameter pad, this will also be very useful when it comes to sanding nook and crevices on the deck.


I was impressed with how easy it was to sand back and very happy with the results.

Once I had exposed the damaged section I decided the best way to repair would be to screw into the wood from top and bottom alternately.

Next job was to find a suitable filler which would provide a good match and fill the gaps, I wasnt too worried about the finish as most of this would be covered by the Stainless Steel Strip.
A visit to Pirates Cave proved fruitful and I purchased a tin of Brummer exterior wood filler which is waterproof and designed for marine applications along with others.

I managed to fill all of the gaps as well as the screw holes, although this stuff goes off quickly so you cant hang around too long.

This was as much as I could do for the day so left the filler to cure before returning the following week and sanding back, in the hope it would look a bit better.

The following weekend I arrived in ernest and within 30 minutes I had sanded back the filler to an acceptable standard and was reasonably happy with the repair.

The next decision was whether or not to just leave the teak open to the elements or to treat with an oil. 
Varnishing was not an option as you are consigning yourself to a life time of labour each year, I had been impressed with a friends boat a couple of years ago who swore by Dutch Oil as it seals the wood and can be over coated every couple of years.
Another visit to Pirates Cave to purchase some Deks Olje, not the cheapest at almost £30 a tin but money well spent.

I managed to get 3 good coats on and found it very easy to apply before I left for the day.

I wanted to replace all of the screws to ensure a good fixing and some of them were beyond their useful life anyway, so as I would be refixing in the original screw holes I opted for M8 size as opposed to M6 which gave a tight fit.

Part of the strip was bent due to the damage so I managed to straighten it to a certain degree using a vice, although I found it still pulling the screws out once fixed.
Another trip to pirates cave for some additional stainless steel fixings and I managed to get the job finished.

Here are the additional fixings I used, I also had to use 3 longer screws which are phillips heads instead of slot head. I will get around to changing them to match.

In total the cost came in at under £50 including screws, oil and filler so think I made the right decision!

1 comment:

  1. Bravo. Fascinating blogg, can you tell us what grit of paper you used for this sanding.